Accidental Museums (article for Urbane February 2008 edition, edited by Alex Pasternack)
If the center of Beijing is defined by a dense network of delightful old alleyway housing, the periphery is replete with new residential compounds. The very worst of these projects (and there are frankly too many of them out there) work with a basic economic concept. Design a single tower to maximize units. Multiply it as much as possible. Turn the leftover space into a landscaped garden. Cap it off with a big neon sign displaying the telephone number on the roof.
Typically, there is very little room for architectural experimentation within the residential buildings themselves—the game is really to squeeze the most profit out of them. However, there always seems to be one mysterious centerpiece that seems to follow a different architectural language—and often it is quite beautifully designed. This is the sales pavilion.
For residential projects in other parts of the world, the developer usually turns one unit into a sales "show suite." In China, due to lightning-fast schedules, a pavilion is required to attract potential buyers from the street, to exhibit the vision of the project, and, ultimately, to sell units.
"It's really interesting, this time-dependent notion," notes Oliver Lang, an architect at the Vancouver-based practice LWPAC, who designed a pavilion resembling a floating glass box near the 5th ring road. "You start on a huge empty field and you put a little pavilion on it. People go there and start thinking about their future. Then, the community around it grows—five hundred families, a thousand, two thousand. Then, when the whole thing is sold, you have to provide the first amenity."
The sales pavilion automatically serves as this first public space that catalyzes the community. No longer required as a sales office, it is re-appropriated for other functions. Mr. Lang's project, in fact, had a matrix of scenarios. The spaces have been used successfully for all types of uses, from a lecture hall to a teahouse to an exhibition space. It also needed innovative detailing because after two years, it had to be dismantled and reassembled in another location, making room for a future school.
URBANUS, a Chinese architectural practice that has designed several pavilions, used the flexibility of the project type to experiment with space, playing with form, materiality, and panoramic views. Now, after all the units are sold, they serve as pristine spaces for art galleries.
It is almost unthinkable for a profit-driven developer to have the kind of budget for a cultural program within a residential project. However, by cleverly playing off of the sales process, architectural firms like LWPAC and URBANUS have created, in effect, accidental museums. For their part, the real estate developers get some nice architecture—and a way to pay for it too.
Imagine a bustling city known for its unique Asian flavor, experiencing an unprecedented building boom, and gearing up for one of the most ambitious Olympic Games ever.
Sound familiar? However, if you were thinking Beijing, you'd be wrong. This is, in fact, the sparkling city of Vancouver.
Although both are anticipating the imminent arrival of the Olympics, this pristine Canadian metropolis is worlds apart from China's smoggy capital. As Beijing fights pollution on all fronts, Vancouver has already moved on from simply being livable to being sustainable, and now boasts fresh alpine air, clean waterways, and a strong connection with its surrounding wilderness.
Nestled between the snow-capped Coast Mountains and the icy waters of the Straits of Georgia, the city finds itself comfortably settled within a natural paradise. At the same time, Vancouver retains a tight urban core packed with quaint neighborhoods, trendy restaurants, and an emerging arts scene. Welcome to the “World's Most Livable City.”
From Sea to Sky
Vancouver is defined by its geography - there are few places in the world where one can live right by the sea yet still enjoy a breathtaking view of the mountains. Vancouverites not only look at the scenery; they actively get out in it. Whether it's hiking at Grouse Mountain, scuba diving in Horseshoe Bay, rock climbing at Deep Cove, or kayaking in False Creek, there are plenty of ways to experience the great outdoors.
INSIDER'S TIP: Take a warm jacket and go for a stroll down Kitsilano Beach, gazing at the distant cargo ships on English Bay. A favorite among locals, the beach features the country's largest heated saltwater pool (2305 Cornwall Avenue, 604-731-0011.) Afterwards, settle down on 1960s-styled leather banquettes for traditional bacon and eggs at nearby Sophie's Cosmic Cafe (2950 West 4th Ave, 604-732-6810).
Rehabilitating the Industrial Coastline
Over the years, industry has been pushed out from downtown into the suburbs. Today, abandoned factories have been converted into expensive lofts, and waterfront industrial yards now house sleek glass condominium towers. As a result, Vancouver is a city that has reversed itself, with residential on the inside, and industry on the periphery.
INSIDER'S TIP: Granville Island is a great example of an industrial-yard-turned-urban
Resisting Development
Had it not been for some key political legislation, Vancouver would have become a typical sprawling city. Former provincial premier Mike Harcourt, in his latest book City Making in Paradise, gives two such examples. The first - preventing development on farmlands just outside the city - has not only encouraged more efficient urban planning within the city limits, but has also allowed fresh produce to be grown within just a few miles of the center. The second - designation of restricted parkland just west of the city in 1886 - cemented Stanley Park's place as an enduring urban wilderness.
INSIDER'S TIP: For visitors to Vancouver, Stanley Park is a getaway within a getaway. In autumn, this forested preserve of over 400 hectares of cedar, hemlock, and fir trees becomes a colorful dreamland. Rent a bike or a pair of blades, and ride along the seawall. Linger around for freshly shucked oysters at the Fish House (8901 Stanley Park Drive, 877-681-7275, www.fishhousestanleypark.com)
Social Activism
In the 1960s, community activists fought against a proposed freeway that would have obliterated nearly all of what is left of Vancouver's historic heart - Gastown and Strathcona.
INSIDER'S TIP: Traces of Vancouver's past still remain in Gastown, with its 19th-century architecture, red brick streets, and steam clocks that still chime on the hour. Browse the Native handcrafted “dream catchers” and giant totem poles at Hill's (165 Water Street, 604-686 4249, www.hillsnativeart.com). Further down the street, sip a cocktail at modern and chic Chill Winston (3 Alexander Street, 604-288-9575, www.chillwinston.ca). And, after being seated by waiters who greet you with a chorus of loud welcomes, savor izakaya (Japanese tapas) at Guu (838 Thurlow Street, 604-685-8817)
Immigrant Enclaves
Without embracing multiculturalism, Vancouver would not have the cosmopolitan make-up it prides itself on today. The city was home to Canada's first Chinese community, and has subsequently welcomed immigrants from all over the world, including India, the Philippines, Southeast Asia and, increasingly, Latin America and Eastern Europe.
INSIDER'S TIP: Aberdeen Centre, in Richmond, is an unconventional, curvy, and contemporary Chinese mall, with Hong Kong brand names, great restaurants, and a fantastic Japanese dollar store. For exquisite lunchtime dim sum, check out Fisherman's Terrace Seafood Restaurant (4151 Hazelbridge Way, Richmond, 604-303-9739, www.aberdeencentre.com)
Cultural Trends
Vancouver has always been known as a trendy city. This is where Greenpeace was founded, and where fashion houses like Lululemon, West Beach, and Aritzia first established their reputation. Because popular TV shows such as the X-Files and Smallville have filmed here, it is often referred to as Hollywood North. And now, its restaurants are attracting top chefs from around the world.
INSIDER'S TIP: Small plates dining (a similar concept to tapas) has become an essential ingredient in Vancouver's culinary culture, while healthy eating, including vegetarian cuisine, also has a long tradition in the city. You can get the best of both worlds at Foundation Lounge, a restaurant with funky green decor, and specializing in vegan tapas. (2301 Main Street, 604-708-0881)
HOW TO GET THERE:
Vancouver is 11 hours away by air. Both Air Canada (www.aircanada.com) and Air China (www.airchina.com.cn/en) have daily non-stop flights from Beijing Capital Airport.
